Used Car Buying Tips: How to Not Get Ripped Off in Australia (2026)
James Kowalski
ClickOz Automotive Editor
Australia has one of the highest per-capita car ownership rates in the world, which means the used car market is absolutely massive — and so are the opportunities to get burned. Over $14 billion worth of used vehicles are sold privately in Australia each year. Here's how to make sure yours isn't a horror story.
Before You Even Look at the Car: PPSR
The Personal Property Securities Register (PPSR) check is non-negotiable. For $2, you can check whether the car has finance owing on it (meaning the bank actually owns it), has been reported stolen, has been written off, or has been used as security on a loan. Skip this step and you could end up with a car the bank repossesses the week after you buy it.
Run the PPSR check at ppsr.gov.au using the VIN or licence plate. It takes 2 minutes and costs $2.40. Anyone selling a car who refuses to give you the VIN for a PPSR check is a red flag.
The Pre-Purchase Inspection
For any car over $5,000, paying $150–$300 for an independent pre-purchase inspection (PPI) from a qualified mechanic is the best money you'll spend. NRMA, RACV, RACQ and similar state motoring clubs all offer this service. They'll check the engine, gearbox, suspension, brakes, rust, accident history and more — and give you a written report.
$2.40
PPSR check cost
$150–300
Pre-purchase inspection
$1,200+
Average problem found
Red Flags to Walk Away From
- Seller won't let you take the car to a mechanic
- Price is significantly below market value with no explanation
- Only WhatsApp or email contact — no phone call, no face-to-face
- The registration papers don't match the seller's ID
- Fresh paint on part of the car only (accident repair)
- Mismatched tyre wear (steering or suspension issues)
- VIN plate looks tampered with or doesn't match compliance plate
- Seller insists on cash only and wants to meet 'somewhere convenient'
How to Negotiate Without Being Awkward
Most private sellers in Australia price 10–15% above what they'll actually accept. Start your offer at the price you'd genuinely be happy paying, not at rock bottom. Use the inspection report as leverage — if the mechanic found $800 worth of issues, that's a legitimate reason to offer $800 less. Keep it factual, not personal.
